We lately had the pleasure of attending the 2019 Worldwide Cool Local weather Chardonnay Celebration (i4C), which ran from July 19-21, 2019 in stunning Wine Nation Ontario. With three days of signature occasions all targeted on what some might think about the noblest of white wine grape varieties (sorry Riesling!), i4C brings Chardonnay to the forefront, giving it the highlight it deserves. The ABC (“Something However Chardonnay”) days, which manifested themselves in response to the oak chip butter bomb packing containers of yesteryear, are lengthy behind us. And it will not be summer time in Wine Nation Ontario with out the chance to dive deep into the cool waters of cool local weather Chardonnay. What higher method to settle down on this warmth than with a glass of Blanc de Blancs, proper? 😎🥂
i4C is now in its ninth yr, and this was our third time attending the celebration, so this yr we determined to take a recent perspective on our favorite occasion of the summer time. In previous years, we approached i4C with a glowing focus, spending our time tasting Blanc de Blancs from the world over and diving deep into the gorgeous VQA glowing Chardonnay from Ontario. In spite of everything, as a cool local weather winemaking area, there’s a lot to say about Ontario glowing wine! Nonetheless, we didn’t wish to repeat ourselves and so we felt we had a little bit of a carte blanc… err, we imply, carte blanche! 😜
So, what have been two Glowing Winos to do? 🤔
Effectively, within the spirit of celebrating some milestones ourselves, we have been feeling reflective, considerably older and wiser, and you may say we took an “old-fashioned” method. First, by making it a precedence to attend i4C’s “Faculty of Cool” periods. And second, by taking full benefit of the “Judgement of London 2010” tasting at Southbrook Vineyards, which allowed us to style 10+ yr outdated Chardonnays from Ontario (nearly 10 years after an epic displaying in London’s Canada Home). Collectively, these periods emphasised age (sur lie, or on the lees, and in bottle) and we have been curious – and really excited to be taught extra – in regards to the growing older potential of Ontario Chardonnay.
Faculty of Cool
Offered by VQA Wines of Ontario, the Wine Advertising Affiliation of Ontario and the Grape Growers of Ontario, The Faculty of Cool is a joint session focussed viticultural, winemaking and advertising themes, accompanied by a collection of tastings. Whereas we have been eager to be taught all about lees from moderator Eugene Mlynczyk, MW and an esteemed panel of scientists, winemakers and technical administrators, we have been additionally excited to listen to Julia Harding, MW ship the keynote deal with. A longtime e book editor by commerce, Julia is now referred to as a “unicorn” for passing her Grasp of Wine examination on the primary strive, with flying colors. She is nicely regarded for her oenological and viticutural data, and is engaged on a refresh of Wine Grapes, which she co-authored with Jancis Robinson. Because the “proper hand lady” to the world’s most esteemed wine critic, Julia is as knowledgable as she is pleasant, and we totally loved her opening remarks to kick off this yr’s i4C. Like us, Julia made the purpose: what new subjects can we focus on after 9 years of i4C?
Seems, that Julia had a lot to remain about Chardonnay and it’s rising potential across the globe, together with in Nice Britain. Focussing on a collection of vineyards in south and southwestern England, Julia highlighted the unbelievable glowing wines being produced there and the problem in reaching the identical success and accolades with nonetheless Chardonnay. Excessive labour, land and enter prices, along with temperamental rising situations and comparable choices from across the globe for a decrease retail worth, makes English Chardonnay a troublesome promote. Add local weather turn into the combination and, nicely, who is aware of precisely the place it should go. We discovered the parallels to Ontario Chardonnay comparable and dissimilar. Comparable in that there’s a way of respect for custom, issues about local weather problem and dedication to high quality, however dissimilar in that the worth proposition of Ontario Chardonnay is a little more… apparent? With glorious examples retailing from $20 to $35, there’s lots for the buyer to get pleasure from (and at a fraction of the value, in comparison with many European cool local weather areas producing wines of the identical calibre). However, we digress. 😜
With temperatures heating up throughout Wine Nation Ontario, issues positively cooled down thanks partially to one in every of i4C’s signature occasions, the “Faculty of Cool.” Whereas all three periods (focussed on lees, local weather change and shopper traits) have been insightful, the lees session left the most important impression on us. Moderated by Eugene Mlynczyk, MW, the session introduced collectively Benoît Marsan, Worldwide wine chemistry teacher Université du Québec à Montréal, Gregory Viennois, Technical Director, Domaine Laroche, Paul Cluver, Director, Paul Cluver Wines, Pierre Fresne, Accomplice & Winemaker, Champagne Fresne Ducret and Jean-Laurent (J-L) Groux, Winemaker, Stratus. With such an esteemed panel, we have been to be taught extra about lees, a subject that’s each attention-grabbing and thrilling (although we don’t get that enthusiastic about all yeast, let’s be clear).
Essentially the most fundamental clarification of much less could be leftover yeast particles within the wine. They’re leftover from autoloysis, the place enzymes created throughout fermentation kill the yeast. Sounds dramatic, and perhaps if illustrated in a comic book e book it may very well be, however for Chardonnay (nonetheless and glowing) this provides scrumptious textures and flavours. Growing old of wine on lees, then, enhances its sensory traits.
Mentioned in depth by the panel, growing older on the lees, or sur lie, was frequent observe for winemakers Pierre Fresne and J-L Groux, in addition to for Gregory Viennois and Paul Cluver. After all, size of time different and so did takes on whether or not or to not undertake bâtonnage, or stirring of the lees. As with conventional methodology glowing wine, growing older on the lees imparts a brioche character, creaminess and richness. With so many cumulative years of winemaking data shared among the many panel, whether or not from the Champagne, Chablis, South Africa or Ontario, we questioned how a lot perception (and forecasting) is required when fascinated by your wine “down the road.” We’re not speaking a couple of couple years down the road, we’re pondering a decade. And no, not as a result of J-L’s glowing at Stratus remains to be being held, after ten years on the lees (although, we are able to’t wait to lastly strive it). With conventional methodology glowing wine, winemakers use their data, previous expertise and infrequently occasions finest guess as to what their bubbly will probably be like when it hits the cabinets. Occasional tasting will assist decide the place the wine is at some extent and time and the place it could go sooner or later, nevertheless it’s by no means a certain wager. As we realized from the panel, many elements influence the wine’s growing older potential – from the standard and character of the wine itself, the winemaking strategies and storage. Easy, proper? Effectively, not so easy … since a 2009 Grand Cru Chablis will probably be very completely different in 2019, than the same or identical classic Chardonnay from the Côte d’Or, Elgin in South Africa or the Beamsville Bench right here in Ontario.
Excited about the place we have been in 2009 in comparison with 2019 makes a decade appear each lengthy and quick, and making use of the identical lens to Chardonnay or Blanc de Blancs results in extra questions (maybe it’s as a result of we’re growing older too, who is aware of). This may be place to insert a joke right here about growing older sur lie from all the standard methodology glowing wine we style, however we’ll spare you.
Judgement of London
With growing older potential of Chardonnay on our minds, we have been fortunate sufficient to participate within the “Judgement of London 2010” at Southbrook Vineyards, in Niagara-on-the-Lake as a part of i4C.
So, what precisely was the “Judgement of London”?
Effectively, again in Might 2010 at Canada Home in London, United Kingdom, a showcase of Ontario’s best Chardonnays passed off. In complete, twenty two Canadian wineries have been represented on the “Judgement of London,” and Ontario shone via. From the Niagara Peninsula to Prince Edward County, VQA Ontario Chardonnay was nicely represented and held in excessive esteem. Jancis Robinson attended the tasting, and commenting on the variety of Ontario’s Chardonnay choices, she made observe that these effective wines symbolize a broad spectrum of types however that Burgundian affect is powerful. She famous that the perfect of those wines have been delicate and dense in flavour, benefitting from a profitable 2007 classic. Citing a number of of her favourites as having their very own persona and nice appeal, we’re certain the winemakers there have been more than happy. Within the subsequent Monetary Instances article, Jancis extolled that “Ontario’s finest Chardonnays can maintain their very own with the world’s best.” A beautiful assertion for a rising wine area, and made ever the extra sweeter contemplating a not-so-sweet preliminary expertise.
Jancis Robinson’s first skilled wine tasting was on Canadian wine at Canada Home in London again in 1976, when she started as a secretary at a wine publication. Apparently, none of her colleagues felt it was a worthy tasting to attend. She attended anyway however the expertise was not a optimistic one for Jancis, nor the Canadian wine business. Issues have come a great distance for each the Canadian wine business and Jancis (who now frequently tastes Canadian wine and has stated beautiful issues about our wines, as we’ve seen).
To say that Southbrook proprietor Invoice Redelmeier attended the “Judgement of London 2010” is an understatement. As we realized, he took initiative and led the cost to arrange the showcase, after being impressed by Ontario Chardonnay’s efficiency at a California versus France Chardonnay tasting a yr prior. With different “judgements” launching wine areas or wine types into world consciousness, we are able to’t assist however assume that this too motivated the winemakers of Ontario. Who doesn’t wish to be acknowledged and hopefully exported throughout the globe, proper?
So, right here we have been at Southbrook for i4C, with Invoice’s anecdotes, delivered with a combination of pleasure and restraint (from a chilly, on the most well liked day of the yr!). It was a pleasure to have Invoice take us on a journey again in time, pouring seven of the wines initially showcased on the “Judgement of London 2010.”
With age on our minds, we questioned, how will these seven wines current themselves, now a decade later? As every wine was poured and the tasting flight got here to gentle, we questioned how winemakers selections again in 2007 could be skilled at present. Will 2007 proceed to shine as a classic? Will the proportion of latest oak make an enormous distinction in 2019? A few of the seven wines poured are from wineries that not exist, or which have shifted focus utterly. So to have this snapshot in time was a really particular expertise.
Invoice poured the next collection of wines:
- Southbrook Poetica, 2007
- Trius Barrel Fermented Chardonnay, 2008
- Clos Jordanne Chardonnay, 2006
- Hidden Bench Chardonnay, 2008
- Cave Spring Chardonnay, 2007
- Penninsula Ridge Chardonnay, 2008
- Tawse Chardonnay, 2007
With out entering into every in nice element, we are able to safely say that every one however one wine aged gracefully. For the six of the seven that made it to the current day in effective type, we are going to echo Jancis’ feedback that they’ve their very own distinctive appeal and persona. For us, the Southbrook’s Poetica continues to shine, with a vigorous acidity and baked apple character. Clos Jordanne’s was wealthy, nutty and intense… and we weren’t shocked it has held its personal, down the road. Cave Springs’ 2007 Chardonnay retained a lot of its acidity and regardless of its richness, its mineral character made it distinct among the many lineup. Tawse’s 2007 Chardonnay was distinctive within the line up as nicely, however with a extra delicate minerality and freshness. For us, although, the standout was the Hidden Bench 2008 Chardonnay, which continues to shine with its electrical acidity, stunning fruity and nutty character and total stability. Because the tasting progressed, we stored going again to understand it in all its glory. What a cool expertise, to say the least!
And, should you’re questioning, Jancis revealed a collection of her favourites, together with the Southbrook Poetica, Le Clos Jordanne’s Chardonnay and Tawse’s 2007 Chardonany. To see these maintain up elegantly, regardless of their age, goes to point out that VQA Ontario wine has grown in leaps and bounds, and continues its dedication to high quality.
Thanks for studying! ☺️
You deserve a pleasant crisp glass of cool local weather Chardonnay! 😉 We hope you loved our “old-fashioned” method to reporting on i4C this yr, nevertheless, that definitely doesn’t imply we didn’t participate within the different unbelievable signature i4C occasions! 😎 When you’ve been maintaining with us on Instagram you’ll know we had the prospect to attend Flights of Chardonnay (our favorite!), The Cool Chardonnay World Tour Tasting & Dinner, and the Moveable Feast Brunch at Ravine! And we even captured the occasions throughout an Instagram Takeover for @WineCountryOnt. So we are going to go away you with a few of our favorite pictures from the weekend. For extra about i4C, go to coolchardonnay.org. We hope to see you there subsequent yr! We are able to Chard’ly wait. 😎