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Had an excellent dinner at Brat final night time. It was my first time, and it was one of many meals of the 12 months.

Our theme was Loire, and we introduced our personal wine (corkage £20 a bottle, which could be very affordable) in addition to ordering one from the checklist. I spent fairly some time with their wine checklist, and it’s one of many perfect in London, stuffed with fascinating issues. If I have been to place collectively a wine checklist, it might look very very like this (I wasn’t terribly stunned once I came upon that the checklist had been developed by Noble Rot).

The wood-panelled eating room is stylish and a bit of understated. It feels very snug. It feels easy, in the absolute best method.

Brat’s theme is a Basque one, and the menu is, once more, easy and delightful on the identical time. We ate nicely and ordered a wide range of dishes to match with our eclectic number of Loire gems (we’d accomplished no coordinating).

The spotlight was undoubtedly the turbot, the dish that Brat has turn out to be well-known for. It’s grilled entire, and at £85 it’s not low cost, nevertheless it fed 4 comfortably. A part of the enjoyable is foraging via the skeleton to mine stunning morsels of tender white flesh.

We additionally did the meat rib. 1.9 kg of tender fatty goodness – once more, not low cost (£95), however sufficient for 4 and a deal with. An announcement dish. We wanted this for our three reds.

Different highlights: oysters roasted with seaweed; the well-known chopped egg salad and bottarga; grilled bread with girolles and truffles; grilled bread with anchovies; and blood sausage and borlotti beans.

Every little thing was just about good.

The wines

Claude Courtois Les Cailloux du Paradis Racines Blanc NV (2015) Vin de France
A mix of Romorantin, Sauvignon, Menu Pineau and Chardonnay. Pure. Recent and fairly tight and mineral with beautiful precision to the citrus flavours. Linear with beautiful acid line. 91/100

Clos de la Coulée De Serrant 2009 Savennières Coulée De Serrant, Loire, France
15.5% alcohol. This was barely excessive toned on the nostril with a little bit of ethyl acetate, then notes of honey and spice and baked apple. Herbs and spice on the palate with good weight and a few beautiful spiciness. Such a particular wine. 93/100

Le Clos de la Meslerie Vouvray 2009 Loire, France
A cracking Vouvray from Peter Hahn. Honey and nutty with pear, citrus fruit and a few apple. Honeyed and spicy with some sweetness, a little bit of tropical character and good stability. 93/100

Clos Rougeard Saumur Champigny ‘Les Poyeaux’ Loire, France
Advanced, spicy and meaty with some savoury spicy notes. Concentrated and chalky, a bit gravelly, some smoky notes and a extremely beautiful texture. Expressive and perfumed with pepper, herbs and beautiful fruit. Consuming completely now. 95/100

Domaine Guion Bourgeuil Cuvée Status 2017 Loire, France
Natural. Actually floral black cherry and blackcurrant fruit with good density and a gravelly, chalky edge. That is juicy and expressive and fairly critical. Essence of Loire Cabernet Franc. 94/100

Thierry Germain Domaine des Roches Neuves Saumur Champigny ‘Les Mémoires’ 2014 Loire, France
Brooding blackcurrant and blackberry fruit nostril. Taut, recent and fairly main with linear black fruits. Savoury, taut and dense. 94/100

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