In the case of Pinot Noir, Austria is a minor participant. The variability accounted for simply 1.three % of the nation’s wine manufacturing in 2015, in accordance with the Austrian Wine Advertising and marketing Board, which notes that Pinot Noir cultivation “continues to be in its infancy” however with “more and more promising outcomes.”
Proof of that promise comes from one of the vital thrilling Pinot Noirs I’ve tasted — from wherever — this 12 months: Meinklang’s 2017 Pinot Noir from the Neusiedlersee subregion of Burgenland.
There, the Michlits household farms about 170 acres of vineyards, a part of a a lot bigger “combined farm” the place grains, fruit orchards, and greens are additionally grown alongside Lake Neusiedl on the border with Hungary. (A part of the farm truly lies in Hungary, and Meinklang produces a number of wines from vineyards there.)
A clue to Meinklang’s farming philosophy lies on its labels: The image is a cow, which represents the truth that the farm makes use of biodynamic practices, together with fertilizer from the manure of cows, sheep, and horses Meinklang maintains for this function. Different methods from the pure wine playbook embrace minimal use of sulfites, native-yeast fermentation, and never filtering the wine.
In Meinklang’s Pinot Noir, or Blauburgunder in German, the result’s a vibrant, earthy wine with beautiful mixed-berry fruit tastes that evoke blueberry, strawberry, and cherry with a contact of black licorice, all of it framed by a reasonable tannic grip. Fermentation and growing old happen in chrome steel and in giant, used barrels, so there’s solely a touch of oak.
With vigorous acidity and alcohol at simply 12 %, the wine is refreshing with a lightweight chill and may be served with all types of merely ready dishes, together with grilled hen and pork. It’s additionally an amazing worth at about $20 or so.
When first poured, you’ll discover a bit spritz, which isn’t unusual in low-intervention wines. It goes away after you swirl it round in your glass. What emerges is a captivating younger wine that’s pleasant to drink, attention-grabbing, and downright irresistible.
On the earth of Pinot Noir, this one is in a category by itself — an Outdated World wine that’s less complicated and extra accessible than Burgundy, however unencumbered by the burdens of big-fruit, high-alcohol, and extreme oak present in so many New World Pinot Noirs.